Ingredient Analysis: Etude House Moistfull Collagen Cream

Etude House apparently changed the formula of their Moistfull Collagen Cream. I haven’t even gotten to try their original cream (but a box is on its way), and now they’ve just released a new and improved version. I’m curious to know the difference between them. This is an ingredient comparison of the old/original version and their newly formulated cream – please keep in mind that I have yet to try the cream, so this list just compares the ingredients and it’s not an actual review of the product.

minusSummary: The new formula contains less ingredients, but less doesn’t necessarily mean better. They replaced the silicone ingredients with alcohols. However, they did eliminate the non-environmentally friendly Polyethylene, which is good. But I can’t get over the alcohol. The new and improved formula doesn’t seem to be such an improvement. balaozinho42

newcollagenHere is a list of ingredients in the New Moistfull Collagen Cream that’s not included in the original version:

  • It contains 4 fewer ingredients (31 ingredients total).
  • Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil: The seed oil of a Baobab tree. This native African tree is known for its unusually thick trunk. Baobab seed oil is high in fatty acid content, similar to avocado oil. It’s supposed to be “highly penetrating, deeply nourishing and softens dry skin”.
  • Alcohol: I’m surprised to see this ingredient, regardless of low it is on the list. Although both products contain Cetearyl Alcohol, characterized as a good alcohol, only the new version contains alcohol. According to Paula’s Choice, “alcohol harms your skin’s protective barrier, triggers free-radical damage, makes oily skin and redness worse, and is best described as pro-aging.”
  • Phytantriol: It’s another alcohol. It’s evaluated by The Environmental Working Group as a low to moderate hazard for having irritant properties. According to the Truth In Aging, there’s strong evidence that it’s a skin irritant that “can instigate immune system response that can include itching, burning, scaling, hives, and blistering of skin”. Yikes!
  • Poloxamer 407: A surfactant (enables oil-based ingredients to be dissolved in water) and stabilizing agent. Paula’s choice rates it as good. However, EWG’s Skin Deep notes concerns.

moisttttHere’s a list of ingredients in the old or original Moistfull Collagen Cream that wasn’t included in the new version:

  • The original contains 35 ingredients.
  • Carbomer: A synthetic polymer used as a thickening agent.
  • Cyclomethicone: A commonly used silicone with moisturizing properties, and it’s benefits include aiding in the rejuvenation of skin where acne scars were present. However, it has been known to cause minor skin irritation.
  • Dimethicone: One of the most widely used agents in cosmetics. It’s a silicon-based polymer used to make products easily spreadable. It’s known to have a variety of useful functions.
  • Ethylhexylglycerin: It’s a relatively new conditioning agent and preservative that’s used as an alternative for parabens. Two studies have found it to be a skin irritant causing allergic contact dermatitis.
  • Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Extract: Both the old and new version includes the Baobab fruit extract, but the original also has the hydrolyzed (or broken down) extract, while the new includes the seed oil.
  • Peg/Ppg-20/15 Dimethicone: A silicone.
  • Phenyl Methicone: Another silicone.
  • Polyethylene: A versatile ingredient that’s commonly used in skincare as a stabilizer, binding agent, and thickener. It’s also ingredient in those tiny exfoliating beads, which are known to be non-environmentally friendly (it accumulates in our waterways and poses a hazard marine life).

mandp

Ingredients (New Moistfull Collagen Cream):

Hydrolyzed Collagen, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Betaine, Kaolin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Pca Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Stearic Acid, Silica, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Poloxamer 407, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Phytantriol, Ppg-5-Laureth-5, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Alcohol, Water, Disodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrancee

Ingredients (Old / Original Moistfull Collagen Cream):

Hydrolyzed Collagen, Water, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Alcohol,Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Extract, Betaine, Kaolin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Pca Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Cyclomethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Silica, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Polyethylene, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Peg/Ppg-20/15 Dimethicone, Phenyl Methicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ppg-5-Laureth-5, Carbomer, Disodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance

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